NYFW SS/23 Designers to Watch: A Recap and Insider Look
- farnazdadashi
- Feb 17, 2023
- 4 min read
New York Fashion Week was a whirlwind of activity, as I rushed from shows to showroom appointments, seeking out pieces from various designers that would fit my clients' needs. I traversed the city, from downtown to uptown, Brooklyn to the financial district, and back again. The shows offered a glimpse into the creative directors' worlds, as each detail was carefully crafted to tell a story - from the casting to the music, and even the event locations. The experience was truly captivating, transcending the limitations of any single image.
I've put together a summary of the shows I attended, highlighting the standout pieces from each collection. As I have established relationships with these brands, I am able to facilitate special orders for my clients. If you're interested in seeing what's available for purchase, don't hesitate to reach out and I will be happy to share the details with you. As you read this recap, I hope you feel inspired and motivated for the new season that lies ahead.

The Marni runway show made a stunning first impression in New York City, breaking from its traditional home in Milan to debut beneath the iconic Manhattan Bridge. As I watched, I was completely enveloped by the sensory overload of my surrondings and captivated by the fluidity and energy in each garment. The blend of traditional and modern silhouettes was nothing short of inventive and inspiring, showcasing fresh and unconventional ways of dressing. The recurring use of circular patterns added a layer of sophistication and mystery, seen in everything from the rising and falling circles on T-shirts and bike shorts to the baby crochet pieces with ruffled edges. Perfect for those who are looking to enhance or add more eclectic and artistic pieces to their wardrobes.

Catherine Holstein's SS23 collection is a testament to her ability to create fashionable pieces with an attitude of edginess and an essence of classic elegance. The standout jacket with a crystal-studded lapel, combined with Holstein's mastery of proportion and tailoring, produced looks that are both stylish and practical. This collection is a reflection of the contemporary woman's aesthetic, with items like the tie-neck silk blouse, python printed jackets, denim studded skirt, and sophisticated kitten heels like the Linden sandal and Water pleated slingback poised to become wardrobe essentials this spring.

The collection was a masterclass in duality, characterized by nuanced contrasts that artfully blended soft tailoring - a signature element of the brand - with flowing, freeform silhouettes featuring wrapping and binding details, slipdresses, and an infusion of vibrant hues. Getty herself attests to this approach, remarking that "it feels fresh, and we are mixing it in interesting ways," as evidenced by her bold use of color in standout pieces like a neon-green suit jacket or a twist-detail yellow maillot swimsuit.

The collection showcased an artful blend of muted hues accented by bold pops of color - think chartreuse and mint - across a range of styles from midi skirts and shrunken cardigans to sleek coats and dresses. Not content to rely solely on striking color palettes, the brand played with tactile textures like elasticated terry tweed, glossy techno leather, molded lace, and metallic hand crochet to infuse the collection with energy and verve, yielding a number of standout pieces. Drawing on his Latin heritage, Hernandez also incorporated traditional silhouettes like flamenco ruffles and bell-bottoms into the lineup, bringing a fresh perspective to the runway. For more than a decade, I have been a dedicated admirer of this duo, and after seeing their latest collection at the showroom, it reinforced why I always recommend this brand to my clients. Their designs are consistently innovative, catering to the needs of the modern working woman while staying on the cutting edge.

The collection was presented at Christie's New York, where the lavender-painted walls and matching carpets created a serene atmosphere. In an interview, the designer reflected on his life and the importance of moving forward, stating that he wants his work to reflect the happy and stable place he has achieved. I had the privilege of attending the collection viewing and meeting the talented designer Brandon Maxwell. I was truly amazed by the impressive array of details on the garments, from the stunning 3D printed disco pants to the heavily sequined maxi skirts, stylish cargo pant and top combinations, and intricately embroidered cardigans. Overall, the collection exuded an airy and playful vibe – which I loved!

Tibi designer Amy Smilovic celebrated her 25th year in the fashion industry with an impressive runway show for 800 people. Known for her smart, beautiful basics-with-a-twist, Smilovic did not disappoint with her latest collection. One of the highlights of attending the show was seeing how her loyal customers and friends styled their own pieces. The variety of designs on display at the show was really impressive, and it was clear that Tibi has a knack for creating pieces that can fit into any personal style. They had everything from the crispy cargo pants to the shrunken cashmere cardigan, and the color palette of black, white, celery green, lavender, and ochre means that you can mix and match with ease. These pieces are truly versatile and can be easily incorporated into any wardrobe, making them perfect for everyday wear. One particular piece that caught my eye was the grey blazer pant jumpsuit - it was unique and unlike anything I've seen before!
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